Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Starting fieldwork

Hi everyone! My profuse apologies for my prolonged absence. The past few weeks have been SO BUSY!! I literally dream about my research every night – there’s no escape! Right now I’ve started fieldwork, the beginning of which involves a lot of stress with planning and figuring out how to modify my original plans to fit the messy reality in front of me. (Haha plus I’m really out of shape, so mountain-climbing is really exhausting, especially in a disturbed tropical forest with lots of spiny lianas and other mean-spirited plants with vicious curved thorns for drawing blood from innocent, good-hearted people trying to save their habitat – I actually have a list of plants I now hate.)

Besides learning to live in clouds of mosquitos and hammering out methodology details, early fieldwork involves juggling the constantly changing schedules of my field team members and fighting for their time with other professors. On top of all this, I’m still reading a lot to refine my research proposal for the 5 grants I have due in the next 1.5 months. In short, I’m really looking forward to what I imagine my life will be like in a couple months: organized, and with a little time for myself in the evening (hahaha we’ll see).

Backing up a bit, I realized that I haven’t actually told many of you what research is about:
I am studying the changing relationship between indigenous communities and their traditionally protected sacred forests, its effect on land use practices, and the ecological implications of this evolving relationship for biodiversity conservation.
I’m working with indigenous Dai communities in Xishuangbanna, a prefecture in southwest China that contains the world’s northernmost tropical rain forest and China’s richest biodiversity. However, these forests are disappearing very quickly in the face of expanding rubber plantations.
Right now, Dai sacred forests called Holy Hills are virtually the only remaining forest fragments outside government nature reserves, and they have been documented to contain rare species and ecosystems that are often underrepresented in current protected area networks.
Besides their conservation potential, we also need to consider that there are competing interests at play in Holy Hills. On one hand, it is understood in Dai culture that maintaining Holy Hills improves community well-being by appeasing ancestor spirits. On the other hand, converting Holy Hills for increased rubber production improves material security and Dai social standing in Chinese society.
Ultimately, I’m trying to understand when and how community goals for protecting sacred forests are compatible with conservation goals. This is important for engaging with conservation science and policy-making in a way that can both conserve biodiversity while still allowing for cultural self-determination.

But besides research, the past month has had some fun things happen too. This was my first Christmas away from my family, and despite missing home and people I love, it was actually really great here. There’s actually a huge community of foreigners at XTBG (Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Garden) where I’m based. In some ways, it was one of the most Christmas-y holidays I’ve had. I think that because we are all far away from home, no one takes the Christmas holidays for granted, so we all know that if we want to celebrate it, we need to work hard to make it happen. We also work hard at going through all our holiday rituals to remind us of home, so we had lots of Christmas baking and caroling and parties. XTBG even threw us a special Christmas party for foreigners! Plus there is such a mix of foreigners here that I get to experience Christmas from all sorts of countries, haha and this year with a particularly strong Welsh influence.

New Year’s is less of an explicitly celebrated event in China because it is overshadowed by Chinese New Year, but this year I got to celebrate with a friend’s wedding on Dec 31. These are pictures of Nana and Ben at their ceremony – aren’t they adorable??



This is a picture of me at a string-tying ceremony in the wedding. They have these in Thailand too, I’m told. The older generation goes around and ties string on our wrists to wish us good luck and health, and we have to keep the string on for at least 3 days. It was really fun! Though my string got a bit stinky by the time I took it off…


The wedding (with 1000 guests!!) also involved some dance performances from all the young ladies and old ladies (haha they seem to explicitly exclude no middle-aged ladies). That’s me and my friend Rin eating dinner during the show.




I’m also really enjoying the food here. This is a picture of one of my favourite things to eat: algae! It’s scraped from the rocks in the Luosuo River, and then it’s hand-washed, spread in sheets on woven mats (as shown in the picture), dried in the sun, seasoned with all sorts of yummy spices, and deep-fried! It’s SO GOOD.




I’ve also been trying out the local moonshine. This is a picture of them making some from corn, though they will also use sticky rice.


I also went back to visit some of my old contacts in Dai villages from previous years, and I found that one of them had put up the pictures I mailed his family back in 2011! Isn’t that so sweet?? That’s me in the blue dress with the orange flowers in my hair, from when they had me try on some Dai clothing :)


Ok, that’s in for now because I need to sleep early for fieldwork again tomorrow. Man, I’ve barely scratched the tip of the iceberg for my work, and I’m already pooped!

Much love,
Lily